What Is Permed Hair?
Perming chemically alters your hair structure to form different types of curls or waves. The technique to straighten hair is called hair relaxation. It breaks down the disulfide bonds in your hair and gives it a new structure. There are many techniques to perm your hair:
How Perming Works
The disulfide bonds in the hair are broken using reducing agents like thioglycolates and bisulfites (1). These reducing agents permeate through the cuticle and outer layers of the cortex to break the disulfide bonds. Alkaline agents are used to lift the cuticle scales so that the reducing agents can enter the cortex (1). The hair fibers are set in curlers or rods to give the hair the desired curl or wave pattern. Once the pattern sets in, the perming process in the hair fibers is neutralized using an oxidizing agent like hydrogen peroxide. The traditional style of perming was wrapping hair in rods. After that, the perming solution would be applied so the hair would set in curls or waves. Once the hair is set, the solution is rinsed off, and a neutralizer is used to stop the perming process. Over time, new formulas and techniques using different objects to give you a particular type of curl or wave. Let’s look at the different perming techniques.
Different Perming Techniques
1. Digital (Hot) Perm
With digital or hot perms, the hair is first processed with a relaxing treatment, which helps break the bonds in your hair. Then, your hair is shaped with heated curling rods. The thickness of the rods depends on how loose or tight you want your curls to be. Your hair is finally put in hot rollers that are attached to a device that helps regulate their temperature. This process can take up to four hours or more, depending on the length and thickness of your hair. With the digital perming method, you can get curls of varying lengths, which helps give you a very natural look. Your hair is usually straight while it is wet and curls up as it dries. This method was specifically designed for East Asian hair and only works for people with thick hair. The process is expensive. However, it is less damaging to the hair than other methods.
2. Cold Perm
Cold perms are the traditional way to perm your hair. In this process, your hair is first soaked with an alkaline solution. It is then tightly wound into small curls using rollers. The tight curls help shape your hair into tight ringlets, which are not possible to achieve with the digital perming method. These tight ringlets do not look natural at first, but over time, they will relax and look more natural. The process can take from 2 to 2.5 hours. The curls you achieve with this method remain curly even when wet or when you use a product. The process is more affordable than the digital method and works on almost all hair types. With the right care, a perm can last up to six months. Here are a few tips to help.
How To Care For Permed Hair
You also have to be careful while sleeping with permed hair. Cosmetologist Ghanima Abdullah suggests, “Having your hair tied up is one of the best ways to sleep on permed hair. It’s called a pineapple when you wear a silk scarf around the edges and have your curls up at the top. This helps to keep your curls from resting on the pillow and going flat. You’ll wake up to beautiful, bouncy curls.” The next question that might occur to you is, how do perms damage your hair? Scroll down to the next section to find out.
Do Perms Damage Hair?
Perms can leave your hair damaged, lifeless, and overprocessed. The cell membrane complex and endocuticle are the most vulnerable to chemical treatments (2). This happens if the perm is not done right. Hence, it is recommended to get perms professionally done. Perming induces hair reduction, which causes hair to swell and leads to damage. Not rinsing the perming solution may cause dandruff (3). Chemicals like hydrogen peroxide are known to cause hair damage.
Perming solutions for colored hair may be stronger than virgin hair. Be careful while choosing perming solutions when trying it at home. Most stylists will only let you get a perm done if your hair coloring requires one coloring process instead of multiple ones. If you have dry or brittle hair, it is better not to get a perm done. Perms use chemicals that can make your dry hair more prone to damage. They might also strip your hair of its natural moisture. It breaks your hair structure, which would damage dry hair. Perming short hair may be a little tricky. Picking the right wave or curl can make short hair look brilliant or too short. Perming solutions for oily hair can strip your hair of its natural oils.
How Long Does A Perm Last?
Getting a perm done can take at least three hours. For short hair, perms last for at least three months. For long hair, they may last longer, going up to five to six months. Just like every other hair chemical treatment, there are pros and cons to perming. Remember, if you do decide to perm your hair, maintenance can go a long way in keeping your hair healthy. Follow the tips mentioned above to take care of permed hair. Is permed hair hard to maintain? Permed hair requires care and maintenance to prevent damage or loss of structure. Depending on how long it lasts, you will have to redo the perm after about 3-6 months. By following the above hair care tips, you can easily maintain your perms for 3-4 months if you have short hair or for 4- 6 months if you have long or medium hair. How often should I wash permed hair? Don’t wash your hair at least for 48 hours after getting a perm. Your hair may otherwise lose its curliness and return to its natural structure. Once the perm has set in, you should wash your hair weekly. If your hair gets greasy, use a dry shampoo to give it some texture and volume. What causes a perm to be frizzy? The perming process uses chemicals to change the structure of your locks. The chemicals can strip your hair of its natural moisture and sebum, leaving it dry, brittle, and frizzy. But practicing good hair care tips can keep your hair hydrated and healthy. Which shampoo is good for permed hair? Use a shampoo made for chemically-treated hair and that doesn’t contain harsh ingredients like parabens, sulfates, or phthalates. Opt for shampoos with more natural ingredients than chemicals.
